Mountain villages, clay-jar wine and a capital built over hot springs.
Georgia packs high mountains, vineyards and a Black Sea coast into a small country. Tbilisi's old town has sulphur baths, balconied houses and the Narikala fortress above the river, while nearby Mtskheta holds some of the country's oldest churches. The Greater Caucasus rise in the north, with Gergeti Trinity Church below Mount Kazbek and the medieval stone towers of Svaneti around Mestia.
Hospitality is taken seriously, especially at the supra, a long feast of khachapuri, khinkali and toasts, with wine made in qvevri clay jars in Kakheti. Marshrutkas and shared taxis connect most towns. May, June, September and October are the sweet spots; high mountain roads are best from June to September, and Gudauri draws skiers in winter.
Best time to visit Georgia
May, June, September, October.
Places to visit in Georgia
Tbilisi: Georgia's hillside capital of carved wooden balconies, sulphur bathhouses, ancient churches and a supra table full of food and wine.
Kazbegi: The mountain village of Stepantsminda on the Georgian Military Road, with Gergeti Trinity Church set below Mount Kazbek.
Mestia: The main town of Upper Svaneti, a remote highland region of medieval defensive towers, painted churches and superb trekking.
Sighnaghi: A small walled town in Kakheti, Georgia's main wine region, looking across the Alazani Valley to the Caucasus.
Batumi: Georgia's Black Sea resort city, with a long seaside boulevard, playful modern architecture and subtropical botanical gardens.
Essentials
Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL)
Language: Georgian; Russian widely understood, English among younger people
Plugs: Type C / F, 220 V
Driving: Right side
Time zone: UTC+4
Tipping: Many restaurants add a service charge; otherwise round up
Getting around: Marshrutkas and shared taxis between towns; a driver or 4x4 for mountain roads
Entry: Check the official rules for your passport before booking