High Pamir passes, turquoise mountain lakes and remote valley villages.
More than nine-tenths of Tajikistan is mountainous, and it rewards travellers who like remote landscapes. The Pamir Highway crosses high plateaus to the Wakhan Valley, where the Hindu Kush rises across the river in Afghanistan. Closer to Dushanbe, the Fann Mountains hide Iskanderkul and the Seven Lakes, while Penjikent preserves the ruins of an ancient Sogdian town.
Travel is slow and rugged, with long days in 4x4s and nights in family homestays. Meals revolve around plov, flatbread, soups and endless pots of green tea. June to September is the season, when high passes are open and trekking is at its best; winter brings heavy snow to the mountains.
Best time to visit Tajikistan
June, July, August, September.
Places to visit in Tajikistan
Dushanbe: Tajikistan's capital, a quiet city of wide avenues, teahouses and a national museum, and the starting point for the Pamir Highway.
Pamir Highway: One of the world's great road trips, crossing the high Pamir plateau past Afghan views, turquoise lakes and remote villages.
Fann Mountains: A compact range of rugged peaks and vivid lakes north of Dushanbe, Tajikistan's most accessible trekking area.
Essentials
Currency: Tajikistani Somoni (TJS)
Language: Tajik; Russian widely spoken
Plugs: Type C / F, 220 V
Driving: Right side
Time zone: UTC+5
Tipping: Not expected; around 10% in Dushanbe restaurants
Getting around: Shared taxis between towns; a 4x4 with driver for the Pamirs
Entry: Check the official rules for your passport before booking