Beaches, fish markets and hillside villages
Busan is a port city strung along mountains and bays, with a laid-back, salty character. Haeundae and Gwangalli are its city beaches, the latter facing the illuminated Gwangan Bridge. Jagalchi is Korea's largest fish market, where you can pick seafood downstairs and eat it upstairs. Gamcheon Culture Village climbs a hillside in colourful painted houses, and Haedong Yonggungsa is a rare temple perched on seaside rocks. Try dwaeji gukbap, pork and rice soup, a Busan staple. The KTX reaches it from Seoul in under three hours.