The Afro-Brazilian heart of Brazil
Salvador was Brazil's colonial capital and main slave port, and its African heritage runs through everything from religion to cooking. The Pelourinho, the old upper town, is a steep grid of pastel façades and baroque churches, above all the gold-lined São Francisco church. The Lacerda Elevator links it to the port below. Try acarajé, black-eyed pea fritters fried in dendê palm oil, and moqueca stew, watch capoeira in the squares, and hear the drumming of Olodum. The Carnival here is a vast street party.