An ancient university above the Mondego
Coimbra was Portugal's capital in the Middle Ages, and its university, one of the oldest in Europe, has stood on the hilltop since 1537. The Joanina Library is a baroque treasure of gilded woodwork and ancient books. Students in black capes still climb the steep lanes of the old town, which leads down to the Mondego river. Coimbra has its own style of fado, sung by men and traditionally tied to student life. The Roman ruins of Conímbriga are a short drive away.