Hills, trams and golden light by the river
Lisbon spills over its hills to the wide Tagus estuary, its streets lined with tiled façades and rattling yellow trams. Wander the old Moorish quarter of Alfama, catch the sunset from a miradouro and head to Belém for the Jerónimos Monastery and the original custard tarts. Evenings mean petiscos, vinho verde and, if you're lucky, a fado singer in a tiny tasca.